This will explain how to make two key changes/improvements to your Dolphin emulator, regardless of what front end you utilize. I happen to use and am a big fan of Launchbox (specifically the BigBox portion). I can duplicate the whole Launchbox folder plus all the emulators and ROMs between my PCs. However, some emulators like to place configuration files in your personal Windows directories rather than store them locally in their own, making it more difficult to duplicate between computers. Dolphin is one such application, but this will fix the problem.
Nothing I’m showing below is undocumented on the Dolphin site. It’s simply a little confusing, so hopefully this will help make it easier to implement.
Disclaimer: Below instructions are using the latest version of Dolphin (as of 22 APR 2018 that is 5.0-7062).
How to make your Dolphin install portable:
Note: before this step I recommend you note/document any specific settings you had (graphics specifically). Although I explain how to copy your old settings back to the new folder that will be created inside the Dolphin directory, I found that not all the settings actually copied over.
First, add a blank text file to your Dolphin directory called “portable.txt”. This will force Dolphin to save all the config files to the Dolphin directory under a folder named “User” rather than in the windows user documents directory.
Once you’ve done this and run Dolphin once, you can copy your old files from your Documents directory (My Documents\Dolphin Emulator\*.*) to the dolphin\User directory that was created to make it portable. You may have to recreate some of your settings even after copying them over. I had to re-do my video settings.
For official documentation on this see: https://dolphin-emu.org/docs/guides/controlling-global-user-directory/
How to load per-game controller configurations:
Create and save your per-game controller settings:
- Under “Controllers – Wii Remote 1 (Configure)” set your configuration for the game.
- Save the configuration profile by giving it a name (preferably either generic i.e. “Sideways” or “vertical” or related to the specific game) and press “save”
- Right click on the game in the Dolphin menu list of games and select “Properties”
- Note that you must have specified the game directories in Dolphin’s settings for it to find and list the games!
- In the game properties menu there is a button in the lower left labeled “Edit User Config”. Select that to edit the config for that game.
- Note that you must specify your text editor in Dolphin’s settings for it to open the .ini (text based) file for editing.
- There may already be some pre-set conditions. Just add the control settings at the end, or overwrite anything in [Controls] if already there.
- The text you add will be [Controls] on one line and the next will be the WiimoteProlfileX (where X= the player # of the controller you are setting) = config file you set in step 2.
- The instructions are located at How-to set game ini settings per game.
- Do not add the .ini to the end of the config when you type it. Just the name of the config file.
- Basically you just paste the following into the ini file you’ve opened for editing:
WiimoteProfile1 = DKCountry
Replace the name after “WiimoteProfile1” (I used DKCountry in the example) with whatever you saved the controller config as in step 2 above.
The solution for this is fairly simple. Thanks to the How-To Geek site and their simple instructions.
Summarized the resolution is:
- Open the Google Home app.
- Click the three vertical dots in the corner of the device you want to change the settings for – NOT the app itself.
- Click on “Settings”
- Near the bottom of the screen when you first open, there is a sliding button that controls “Let others control your casted media” – Turn this off.
Note the description for this fantastic little feature, that is enabled by default. Thankfully, when my 14 year old daughter got the media control bar popping up on her phone, the only damage was she kept pausing it because she couldn’t figure out what or why it was happening. I kept trying to figure out why my stream seemed to be buffering and pausing. Also thankfully it was an innocuous stream of The Arrow and not something more…uncultured.
Let me state this again. This feature is enabled by default. WTF, Google?
Why would you think my default preference would be for everyone on my network to suddenly see what I am watching, and control it without me knowing or giving them permission?
If anyone had tried to view the 2017 season games over the past, oh, 6-8 weeks they probably noticed they weren’t working.
Well, they’re back up and functional.
If you’re interested in the issue, suffice to say the site I used to provide a continuously updated/live link to the Google Drive location for the video decided they had made enough money off of me and closed down. The fact I’d paid for 10,000 hits – or about 10 years worth of traffic – was moot to them. Caveat emptor as they say.
Good thing all the money from the ads makes me wealthy enough that it doesn’t matter…
While listening to the Bills and Beers podcast, Sujit described the season as similar to watching Old Yeller.
Well, starting off 0-1 is never great. Which means I have to change my name to break the curse.
Yes. One game is a curse. It’s a tough gayme for tough peeple. And there’s only 12 games in the season you know.
So good bye to 50 Fades to Clay (although this year that actually might come true, finally). We’re on to:
Three’s a Crowder.
17 September 2017: Bills at Panthers (Preview)
The Bills have only played the Panthers six times, and so far it’s been almost all Buffalo. The Bills are 5-1 against the Panthers in previous games, including the first win of EJ Manuel’s
illustrious career. The Panthers only win was in 2005 when Jake Delhomme beat another Bills Wall of Fame quarterback by the name of J.P. Losman.
Game on CBS.
Problem: My ReadyNAS 6 would not pull an IP via DHCP when connected via MOCA. Even when a static IP was assigned, it had no Internet access. With a static IP and the router assigned as gateway it was accessible by all LAN participants, but no WAN – a problem for cloud backup.
Solution: Static IP, Bonded NIC using XOR (even though I don’t have it connected to a managed switch or one that should permit XOR connections) using Layer 2
Update 25 AUG 17: Layer 2 only appears to be faster at switching (no pun intended.) I used 2+3 originally because I expected the Layer 2 association would work for LAN/devices behind the router and IPs for the Internet past the home router would be seen via Layer 3. This worked…intermittently. Layer 2 alone works much more consistently so far.
- Other PCs (minus VMs – see #4 below) did pull IPs via DHCP when connected either directly to the MOCA bridge (I use the Actiontec ECB6200K02).
- There is a mix of MOCA 1.1 and MOCA 2 devices on the LAN, but neither exceeds the total amount of MOCA devices permitted by MOCA standards.
- If I connected the ReadyNAS to the wireless bridge connected via AC (5GHz) to the Fios provided wireless router, the ReadyNAS would get an IP via DHCP and could access Internet
- (Possibly relevant) my Hyper-V virtual machines also had difficulties pulling IPs or getting WAN/Internet access even with static IPs when going through a switch connected to the MOCA bridge. Again, any stand-alone PCs had no issues, including the machine hosting the VMs
- Tried assigning separate static IPs in IPV4 and IPV6 to the two NICs in the ReadyNAS
- Tried static routing one NIC to LAN IPs (192.168.1.0) and the other to Internet/WAN (didn’t work)
- Tried connecting one NIC to the switch connected to MOCA bridge and the other to the wireless bridge in conjunction with #6 (also didn’t work)
- I needed to use the MOCA bridge because it gives me Gbit connectivity to separate building housing the ReadyNAS. The wireless bridge is decent, but at best ~300Mbps and often less.
|I do highly recommend these Actiontec coax to Ethernet adapters.
As mentioned, they use MOCA 2.0 with bonded channels to get actual 1000Mb/Gbit speeds between the two buildings. Even over multiple coax splitters, and while using MOCA to get my WAN connection from Frontier (yuck) Fios.
If you already have a MOCA service (i.e. most fiber to the home providers), you probably only need one as your router is pushing information to your TV set boxes via MOCA, and the Actiontec can pair up with it.
If you don’t, you’ll need at least a pair. I only needed one, but they work so well I’m glad I purchased two. The latency and speed really is equivalent to running Ethernet and all the rooms in both buildings (main house and in-law apartment) were already wired with coax but not completely with Ethernet.
Symptom: Xbox One controller connects initially to the wireless adapter, but after turning off or disconnecting they will not reconnect. Requires a reboot to allow controller(s) to reconnect.
1. Close Steam until the controller is connected, then restart Steam (if desired.) This was my and the majority of the people with the issue’s solution – See Gabriel Barsali’s post on the 4th page of Xbox One Wireless controller keeps disconnecting.
2. If you have the newer (Xbox One S and later with Bluetooth) controllers, try removing the Bluetooth Xbox Controller adapter from the Bluetooth & other devices window in Settings/Devices. If you disable Bluetooth (or remove the Bluetooth dongle) before removing the Bluetooth Xbox Controller Adapter it will appear “grayed out” in the Bluetooth & other devices window; you can’t delete it without Bluetooth on. (Of course.) This was not my issue, but is a potential solution listed by others.
3. Some feel uninstalling GeForce Experience is required. I have GeForce Experience running and this did not cause a conflict for me. It was definitely a conflict with Steam and the new Steam capability to manage non-Steam controllers.