And the chance to set the franchise record comes against the (*cough* second place *cough*) Lightning.
For a number of years, Windows 10 security settings and the drivers it certifies have stymied some WiFi adapters from working as hotspots (i.e. sharing a wired/LAN connection through your computer’s/laptop’s WiFi adapter so other devices can connect to the Internet through your computer.)
Killer Wireless adapters are definitely susceptible to this issue
Bottom line up front: You need to “roll back” your Windows 10 driver to the Windows 8.1 version for it to work cleanly and consistently.
If you have a Killer Wireless AC 1525 or 1535 you can download the driver here: 11AC1525-1535 Win8.1 driver
I understand if you don’t trust a driver from my site (or if you have a different WiFi NIC) you can [edit: as of 6 Aug 2018] also get them from Killer’s website. You just have to do some creative searching for older drivers there.
If you want to confirm the ZIP file of the driver I’ve uploaded hasn’t somehow been changed by someone else (you still have to trust my original file, of course) the SHA1 text to compare the downloaded file is: 28F0219598DC9F6F2E0A18C8B52BB144A6CD91C3 or you can download that file here too. 11AC1525.zip SHA1
One way to confirm a suspicion that your WiFi driver is the culprit – for example, you’ve been getting errors from your devices that they can’t pull an IP from your shared connect (DHCP isn’t working – is to run the following command from a Command Prompt (doesn’t have to be admin.)
netsh wlan show drivers
This will give you a relatively large readout of your WiFi driver’s capabilities. They key verbiage to look for is:
Hosted network supported : Yes
This is usually about 9-12 lines down, after the driver info and radio types supported.
If it says “no” there is a good chance your WiFi will have issues using the built-in Windows 10 Hotspot feature, and you should try installing the Win 8.1 version if it doesn’t work.
This will explain how to make two key changes/improvements to your Dolphin emulator, regardless of what front end you utilize. I happen to use and am a big fan of Launchbox (specifically the BigBox portion). I can duplicate the whole Launchbox folder plus all the emulators and ROMs between my PCs. However, some emulators like to place configuration files in your personal Windows directories rather than store them locally in their own, making it more difficult to duplicate between computers. Dolphin is one such application, but this will fix the problem.
Nothing I’m showing below is undocumented on the Dolphin site. It’s simply a little confusing, so hopefully this will help make it easier to implement.
Disclaimer: Below instructions are using the latest version of Dolphin (as of 22 APR 2018 that is 5.0-7062).
How to make your Dolphin install portable:
Note: before this step I recommend you note/document any specific settings you had (graphics specifically). Although I explain how to copy your old settings back to the new folder that will be created inside the Dolphin directory, I found that not all the settings actually copied over.
First, add a blank text file to your Dolphin directory called “portable.txt”. This will force Dolphin to save all the config files to the Dolphin directory under a folder named “User” rather than in the windows user documents directory.
Once you’ve done this and run Dolphin once, you can copy your old files from your Documents directory (My Documents\Dolphin Emulator\*.*) to the dolphin\User directory that was created to make it portable. You may have to recreate some of your settings even after copying them over. I had to re-do my video settings.
For official documentation on this see: https://dolphin-emu.org/docs/guides/controlling-global-user-directory/
How to load per-game controller configurations:
Create and save your per-game controller settings:
- Under “Controllers – Wii Remote 1 (Configure)” set your configuration for the game.
- Save the configuration profile by giving it a name (preferably either generic i.e. “Sideways” or “vertical” or related to the specific game) and press “save”
- Right click on the game in the Dolphin menu list of games and select “Properties”
- Note that you must have specified the game directories in Dolphin’s settings for it to find and list the games!
- In the game properties menu there is a button in the lower left labeled “Edit User Config”. Select that to edit the config for that game.
- Note that you must specify your text editor in Dolphin’s settings for it to open the .ini (text based) file for editing.
- There may already be some pre-set conditions. Just add the control settings at the end, or overwrite anything in [Controls] if already there.
- The text you add will be [Controls] on one line and the next will be the WiimoteProlfileX (where X= the player # of the controller you are setting) = config file you set in step 2.
- The instructions are located at How-to set game ini settings per game.
- Do not add the .ini to the end of the config when you type it. Just the name of the config file.
- Basically you just paste the following into the ini file you’ve opened for editing:
WiimoteProfile1 = DKCountry
Replace the name after “WiimoteProfile1” (I used DKCountry in the example) with whatever you saved the controller config as in step 2 above.
The solution for this is fairly simple. Thanks to the How-To Geek site and their simple instructions.
Summarized the resolution is:
- Open the Google Home app.
- Click the three vertical dots in the corner of the device you want to change the settings for – NOT the app itself.
- Click on “Settings”
- Near the bottom of the screen when you first open, there is a sliding button that controls “Let others control your casted media” – Turn this off.
Note the description for this fantastic little feature, that is enabled by default. Thankfully, when my 14 year old daughter got the media control bar popping up on her phone, the only damage was she kept pausing it because she couldn’t figure out what or why it was happening. I kept trying to figure out why my stream seemed to be buffering and pausing. Also thankfully it was an innocuous stream of The Arrow and not something more…uncultured.
Let me state this again. This feature is enabled by default. WTF, Google?
Why would you think my default preference would be for everyone on my network to suddenly see what I am watching, and control it without me knowing or giving them permission?
If anyone had tried to view the 2017 season games over the past, oh, 6-8 weeks they probably noticed they weren’t working.
Well, they’re back up and functional.
If you’re interested in the issue, suffice to say the site I used to provide a continuously updated/live link to the Google Drive location for the video decided they had made enough money off of me and closed down. The fact I’d paid for 10,000 hits – or about 10 years worth of traffic – was moot to them. Caveat emptor as they say.
Good thing all the money from the ads makes me wealthy enough that it doesn’t matter…
While listening to the Bills and Beers podcast, Sujit described the season as similar to watching Old Yeller.
Well, starting off 0-1 is never great. Which means I have to change my name to break the curse.
Yes. One game is a curse. It’s a tough gayme for tough peeple. And there’s only 12 games in the season you know.
So good bye to 50 Fades to Clay (although this year that actually might come true, finally). We’re on to:
Three’s a Crowder.